Hidden Gems in the Bay of Islands
Our first time out of Auckland since February was well worth it. Just a scenic 3-hour drive from home, our trip to the Bay of Islands was just what we needed. Basing ourselves in Kerikeri was a good decision. We hadn’t been there for a long time, and we were impressed with what we found.
The weather worked in our favour – clear blue skies and 23 degrees. The drive up was easy, exactly 3 hours (no stops). Driving into town we spotted the weekend market was on at The Old Packhouse. Perfect timing at lunchtime so we took a look around. The place was buzzing, and the sunshine had attracted a crowd. The food smelt amazing and there was a good selection put on by the locals. Dumplings, locally grown blueberries made into smoothies, freshly baked bread, giant pretzels and almost every flavour of pie you could imagine was on the menu. That’s just what we had. There was heaps more to choose from. The shopping was great. So much fresh produce, arts, crafts and those Kerikeri oranges and avocados – the best in the world we reckon. After picking up a few locally made treasures to take home, we headed off to our accommodation.
Kerikeri has plenty of accommodation options, many along the main street. There are also unique places to stay on the outskirts of town, most set in lush sub-tropical bush or gardens. We found a lot of the properties have swimming pools giving a holiday resort feel.
Just down the road from the market we checked in to Kerigold Secluded Chalets Motel. Each stand-alone cottage is set in an orchard of citrus fruit and avocados. We were welcome to sample the fruit off the trees which was unbelievable. The lemons smelt unreal, like they were doused in an artificial essence (they weren’t). Our chalet was perfect for the 3 of us with a double bedroom and a single bed in the lounge for our son. There was a good size kitchen, and the chalet was very clean and tidy. The sun bathed private deck was where we spent a lot of time. This place is also an easy, flat walk to town for shopping and dining out.
We convinced our son that it warm enough for a swim in the motel pool. It wasn’t. The pool is heated in the Summer months, so November was a bit of a push.
Time to do the touristy stuff, so off we went to Rainbow Falls. About a 7-minute drive from the town centre, this is our first hidden gem. From the carpark it was an easy 3-minute walk to the stunning (and unexpected) waterfall. Surrounded by native NZ bush, and home to the Kiwi we felt fortunate to come across this place. The photos say it all.
A bit further down the road is The Stone Store, New Zealand’s oldest surviving stone building. Last time we visited here the place was empty inside. Now there is a shop where you can buy unique souvenirs which are reminiscent of those sold in the early 19th century. Museum displays are upstairs with an $8pp entry fee. Set behind the Stone Store is New Zealand’s oldest building, Kemp House which is also open to the public. We spent time wandering the grounds alongside the river and enjoyed the sunshine.
Day 2 – Paihia. We spent a lot of time in Paihia in our younger days and always look forward to coming back. We had a look around to see what had changed while we waited for our fishing boat to arrive. Nothing much has changed here; the popular waterfront town is still a special place to visit. The only difference was that there is now a big supermarket, a few shops have changed hands, and the bustle of international tourists is no more. Paihia is still offers shopping, beachside dining and delicious ice cream. The beach and wharf are where most people gather to watch the boats come and go. The tours out on the water depart from here, as does the ferry to Russell. Paihia is also the perfect place to stay to explore the region, and it is only a 20-minute drive to Kerikeri. Waitangi Treaty Grounds is not far away; as is Haruru Falls, Opua & Russell. There is a considerable range of accommodation here. Choose from spacious self-catering motel units, hosted bed and breakfast rooms, family holiday apartments and luxury holiday houses. Most properties have views out to sea and impressive sub-tropical gardens.
At 12 noon we met Spot X Fishing Charters at Pier 5. We love fishing and had never fished in the Bay of Islands before. Being a world-renowned fishing spot, we had high expectations. After boarding and a briefing from our skipper Wayne we set off across the glistening waters from the Paihia Wharf. We were joined by another family of 4. The great thing about Spot X is that you can join up with another group which is a great way to save money. After a quick 20-minute trip, Wayne turned off the engine and set the boat in the perfect position to avoid rocking and swells. As soon as the anchor was down, and our lines were in the water I got the first fish of the day. A decent size Snapper, but not big enough to keep. Wayne was so careful with the fish, making sure not to touch them with bare hands as it can make them sick. Every fish he threw back was treated with respect, and Wayne (another hidden gem) made sure they were fit to return to the water. We kept skipper busy, and he was extra attentive baiting rods, humanely unhooking our catch and returning them to sea.
The fish kept biting, and as soon as we put our lines in (or Wayne got a coffee), they were reeled up with someone on the end. Not all the fish were legal size, and we were aware it wasn’t cool to keep every fish we caught, no matter the size. After a few hours out there, we came back with 7 large Snapper. The catch of the day was the biggest Snapper I’d ever seen which weighed in at nearly 5kg’s. Not on any of our lines sadly, but our fishing buddies got to take it home for tea.
We had the most amazing fishing experience with Spot X. There were 8 of us on the boat (including the skipper). We had plenty of room to fish, and space to sit and take a break from catching the endless amounts of hungry fish. The bonus was that all of our fish we kept were filleted by our trusty skipper ready to eat.
These 2 days in the Bay of Islands helped us forget our busy city lives. Without international tourists it was great for us without the crowds. However not so great for the local tourism operators. They need our support, and what better way to do this is to take a holiday of a lifetime in the Bay of Islands.
